A neighbourhood hammam grown into a full salon: wood-fired hammam, argan massages, hair and nails.

Three hours on Agadir bay at golden hour with a skipper, a deckhand, tapas and an open bar.

Three days over the High Atlas to the dunes of Merzouga, a night in a desert camp and a camel ride at sunset.

A restored 19th-century riad around a citrus courtyard, 400 m from Jemaa el-Fnaa.

Rugged 4x4 for the Atlas and the desert roads, unlimited kilometres and full insurance.

Terrace nights over the ramparts during the Gnaoua festival, with reserved seating and a welcome drink.

Five hours offshore for bonito, dorado and whatever else is running, with rods, bait and a skipper who knows the marks.

A rooftop in Gueliz, a trio from the conservatoire and the Atlas turning pink behind the stage.

An orchestra of twelve in a medina courtyard: the Andalusian repertoire of Marrakech, sung as it was written.

A full day in the High Atlas: Berber villages, a waterfall walk and lunch with a local family.